Hidden Streets and Cafés in Istanbul
Beyond Sultanahmet — Balat, Karaköy, and the Asian side.
Most travellers see the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar — and conclude that they've seen Istanbul. They haven't, really. The city's character lives in the neighbourhoods around the headlines: in Balat, in Karaköy, on the Asian side.
Balat
Walk Balat for its painted houses, its old Greek and Jewish corners, its antique shops sleeping behind dusty windows. The cafés are small and seriously coffee-led. Try Forno on the main street, or a glass of tea in any of the corner kahvehane.
Karaköy
Once a workmanlike port district, now Istanbul's gallery quarter. Istanbul Modern reopened here in 2023 in a Renzo Piano building. Walk uphill toward Galata afterwards; the bookshops and design stores are worth a slow hour.
The map ends at Sultanahmet; the city only really begins past it.
Kadıköy and Moda
Take the ferry to the Asian side. Kadıköy's market is the best food shopping in the city. Walk south to Moda, sit on the seawall at sunset with a beer or a tea, and watch the city across the water.
Related guides
A First-Time Visitor's Guide to Kyoto
Kyoto is famously photogenic, but it rewards travellers who plan less and walk more. Here's a calm, practical first visit.
Where to Stay in Seoul, by Neighbourhood
Seoul's neighbourhoods feel like different cities. Here's how to choose between palaces, design, food, and nightlife.
The Best Time to Visit Paris
Spring and autumn get the headlines, but each Paris season has its own argument. Here's how to choose.